MANGO GINGER
* * * Appetising, fresh and flavourful food
27 Lower Main Road. Observatory.
Observatory: 021 448 2500
Open Monday-Friday from 7.30am to 5pm; and 8am to 3pm on Saturdays.
The quaint Mango Ginger in Observatory provides a haven for the growing number of people who are gluten and wheat intolerant, writes JOS BAKER.
I WAS told of this bakery, coffee shop and deli by a fan who felt it deserved publicity, saying, “Hope their fare rings your bells as much as mine!” Who could resist such a charming recommendation? Particularly when it’s supported by facts. He added that owner-chef-baker Fiona Sleigh was a dynamo who had stuck to her ‘good, healthy food and spotless environment’ principles, despite passing fads.
Certainly spotless, this is no Banting-orientated venue. But it provides a haven for the growing number of those who are gluten and wheat intolerant. The good news is that there’s even a gluten-free alternative among the home-baked breads and selection of biscuits (best-seller is a specially developed pistachio nut shortbread).
I found the café to be all its supporter had said, and more. He didn’t mention the extra-large helpings. How this Obs eatery covers costs – let alone makes a profit – is a mystery.
Any mother worried about a student son or daughter not eating properly when away from home at a university or college in Cape Town, should give her offspring this address. (An enthusiastic website review also recommends it for restoring energy should you have a hangover). The vibe is lively, the clientele covers the full spectrum but is mainly young and hungry, and the plates not only filled, but filled with nourishing food.
Fiona’s focus is on creating healthy, nutritious and flavourful food within the framework of organic flour, pure fats and, where possible, organic produce. “Feeding your desire for wholeness” is how she puts it. In case that sounds too wholesome: there’s a line-up of tempting treats.
Her fan didn’t dwell on these; probably thought he’d be accused of exaggerating. Do try my favourite: the individually sized crunchy apple, apricot and almond crumble; or the speciality lemon tart (I cadged a spoonful from my friend’s plate). If you haven’t the space, both are available from the deli counter.
Breakfasts range from healthy to traditional, with fresh bakes including a variety of croissants, and a satisfyingly eggy selection, headed by best-selling eggs Benedict (on an English muffin topped with salmon or gypsy ham, rocket and Hollandaise sauce). Relax with a refreshing just- pressed juice or a shot of caffeine: all the serving staff are trained baristas.
Lunch involves choices from wheat-free pies to appetising sandwiches on home-baked bread. Fresh salad meals and plump wraps round off the selection. Salads are served with berry dressings; quiches of the day and wraps offer a tasty mix of ingredients. My tossed salad with free-range chicken strips marinated in honey, ginger and soya, came with toasted cashew nuts, avo, seeds and sprouts. But I could have done with less lettuce.
Main meals of the day – with an option for vegetarians, meat eaters, and customers intolerant of wheat and gluten – appear on a specials board. You might find potato rösti with smoked salmon, herbed cream cheese and salad; parmesan chicken strips on crostini with pesto and a cooked tomato salsa with rocket and olives; or wheat-free crêpes filled with lemon, artichoke and chicken, garnished with freshly blanched asparagus. My friend went for gold: an aubergine involtini. The mix of the rolled aubergine strips and rich, chunky tomato sauce was outstanding.
Happily, everything on the menu is available to take away. I overheard an order for a platter of aubergine involtini to grace the damask-covered table at a celebration dinner, and applauded the hostess’s good taste.
So how did Fiona learn to cook? Expecting the usual “at my grandmother’s knee”, I was totally taken aback. She had the chutzpah to approach chefs in London kitchens, and ask to be trained.
The fact that she was eager, a slip of a thing and blonde, probably helped. But she found she couldn’t deal with meat: “Too gross. All that working with wobbling pig’s liver.” So it was off to the London Southbank Training College, where she discovered a latent love of baking (“so much more feminine”) and qualified as a pastry chef.
Happily settled in London for five years, she was asked to be a bridesmaid at a Cape Town wedding – and once here, wondered what she was doing with her life.
Given her training, she was offered a job at the Dock Road Café, attached to the conference centre, which meant ensuring that the pastry display looked inviting, and catering for up to 1,500 at functions. “It gave me the chance to refine my recipes and pastry skills,” she reflects with satisfaction.
She’s obviously not afraid of challenges. When I ask her to name the most daunting she’s faced, expecting it to be bearding London chefs in their kitchens, she doesn’t hesitate. It was the formidable prospect of opening her own premises.
Having made a name for herself in the vibey Obs hub, she was loath to leave the area when her lease expired. Instead, she moved to another quaint old house further up the road. She says it was a converter’s dream: no bathroom to strip out, space for a large kitchen and an intimate eating area, with courtyard. And happily, her following has remained loyal.
l Licensed, but limited choice and mainly second labels. Freshly squeezed juices R28/R40 (small or large) glass. Breakfasts from R48-R75; fresh bakes R12-R20; light lunches R25-R55; sandwiches & chicken burger R40-R48; salad meals R72-R75 wraps R65-R78; desserts & cakes R25-R45.