With such a wide range of windows and doors available, you are spoilt for choice. You can use timber, aluminium, PVC, glass blocks, steel or even concrete with sub-frames.
The area in which you live should play a part in the material you decide to use; obviously, the closer you are to the sea, the more you should go for a non-corrosive material. Timber will require more maintenance, but will withstand the effects of corrosion much better. Beware of cheap fittings, (hinges and catches) – brass will always have a good life span.
WINDOWS: My rule of thumb is the fewer moving parts there are, the more likely the window is to last. I also believe windows are an item worth spending money on. To emphasise this point, one of the leading manufacturers of timber windows offers three categories of windows, carrying five-, seven- or 10-year guarantees. Obviously the 10-year guarantee comes at a price, and not only is the timber quality different, but the size of the members and the way they are jointed improves with price. The same is true for aluminium. As I mentioned in a previous article, thickness of aluminium varies and a window with a properly constructed sub-frame will have a longer life span.
The main purpose of windows is to let light in and their area should be equal to at least 10% of the floor area. Their second function is ventilation and you should choose windows with a small, top-hung vent section which is easier to use during bad weather.
You can now buy small-frame timber windows with burglar bars fixed inside the frame. This obviously assists with aesthetics.
When windows are being built in, check:
* That the back of the frame has been primed.
+ That the correct methods of waterproofing and closing the cavities have been used.
* That the opening sections are on a side where they are accessible and best able to deal with weather conditions.
DOORS: The same basic principles apply to doors as to windows, but again I have a few pet hates.
Double doors should not be used as major access points – in other words doors that are going to be used constantly. This includes front doors and patio doors.
Double doors do allow an easier pedestrian flow and make the moving of furniture in and out easier. However, I think a solid 1 200mm door is a much better option at the front, whereas a sliding door, or fold-aside door, is a much better option on a patio. Not only do sliding doors take less space when open, but you also avoid having two doors being constantly knocked against each other. A further benefit is that they can be partially opened to help with ventilation. Don’t forget that sliding doors can also be a great space saver when used internally.
Basic items to check are:
* That the correct fire door is used when specified. Check the plan to see if it is supposed to be a 1 hr or 2 hr door, and ask your contractor to provide you with a copy of the invoice.
* Where you have a combination window/doorframe, it is best to have it purpose-made, rather than trying to join the two together on site.
* To check that the correct hinges are used, and always more rather than less. Two hinges instead of one at the top of a heavy door will help prevent sagging down the line.
* To check that the tops and bottoms of the doors have been painted or sealed.
Last week, we completed the basic outside maintenance, so let’s get started inside.
Rule number one, don’t expect any success inside unless your exterior walls and roof are properly sealed and treated, and remember damp surfaces can take 3 to 6 months to dry out, so don’t expect internal painting of the interior face of external walls to be successful unless the wall is completely dry. But more about walls in later articles, let’s start at the top, with ceilings.
The most common problem we all face is mould or fungus growth, and the most common cause is lack of ventilation and light. Obviously the worst affected areas are bathrooms, which are home to warm steam, a lack of fresh air and are usually the darkest rooms in the house. Start by washing off the mould; there’s no need for expensive products – a weak mixture of bleach, Dettol or pool acid will usually do the trick.
Having cleaned the surface, let it stand for a month, but ensure that you leave doors and windows open to improve ventilation. If the problem re-occurs, the problem is possibly a little more sinister or lack of sufficient ventilation. Begin by checking the roof void above; if it is dry and there are no signs of roof or plumbing leaks, then you need to increase the ventilation flow. Probably the cheapest way is to install a small extractor fan, and instead of going to the expense of cutting a hole in the wall, mount it in the ceiling, adjacent to, or just above, the shower. In many homes the fan is linked to the light switch, but if you are looking to save electricity, install it on a separate circuit, as the only time the fan is really needed is when the shower is in use.
Ceiling mould in other rooms, usually means that moisture is present in some form, either a minor roof leak, or again a lack of breathing space, between the ceiling and roof. This is most common in sloping ceilings where they are fitted tight up against the roof sheeting, and again more likely to be a problem with metal roof sheets than with tiles. This problem should be addressed at the initial construction stage, but can be overcome by adding external vents to encourage air flow through the roof void. Remember, each room should have at least one air brick, which should not be covered or removed, and that windows are meant to be opened, mould hates sunlight and fresh air.
Once you are satisfied that you have treated the cause of the mould, then you can begin thinking about repainting, but that’s where we will start next week.
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