The first thing that strikes new visitors to the four-star luxury Isandlwana Lodge is the discreet way it blends into the side of iNyoni Rock escarpment.
The lodge is almost organically melded with the steep hillside, just below where Zulu commander Ntshingwayo kaMahole Khoza stood as he watched the mighty Zulu impi overcome the British troops under the command of Lord Chelmsford at the base of Isandlwana Mountain on January 22, 1879.
The sounds that day are a far cry far from today: cattle lowing in the early morning, bird calls and distant echoes of conversations from the village.
Strange how peaceful battlesites tend to be when the sounds of battle have long passed. Stranger still to imagine multitudes making war in the summer heat in this tranquil, rolling countryside.
Isandlwana Lodge was made possible as a result of the efforts of many people and is owned by American partners – Maggie Bryant and Patt Stubbs – and the surrounding community.
A wide range of projects benefiting the community, above and beyond the revenue generated by the lodge, were implemented in partnership with the Wild Foundation, a US-based conservation and sustainable development non-profit organisation.
Understandably, the main attractions for most at Isandlwana are the in-depth discussions and tours, usually led by South African-born retired British Army officer Robert Gerrard, resident historian, author and expert in Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer Wars.
His tours are particularly stirring and vivid and even those not that keen on war histories find themselves entranced.
Taking time to relax on the deck or in the pool, admiring the picturesque view, allows all the many absorbed, invigorating experiences to percolate and leave one in a most relaxed state.
Between delicious, hearty meals and expeditions, the media room and library, bar or curio shop are also pleasant places to while away lazy hours in the airy interior. The staff, under manager Andre Broerse, are most pleasant and personable, and their outstanding service is frequently and fondly remarked upon.
There are 12 stylish en-suite bedrooms with wonderful view windows and private balconies overlooking the panorama of the battlefield. There is also a self-catering guesthouse with three twin rooms. Fruit, homemade biscuits and coffee plungers add to your welcome, as does the one-sheet news roundup that is delivered in the mornings. Do not expect TVs in your room as this is a place to escape today’s frenetic pace.
It’s a four-hour drive to Isandlwana from Durban unless you opt for the scenic backroads via Greytown and Kranskop and on very good dirt roads through spectacular valleys and mountain passes. Well worth the drive. And Isandlwana Lodge is the perfect journey’s end, and a departure for journeys to the hills of aloes, the battlefields and other sights.
Rates are from R1 900 per person with full board. For reservations call 034 271 8301/4/5, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.isandlwana.co.za - Sunday Tribune