Durban - Does relaxing on a lounger, steam rising from a hot cup of coffee as you float past wild animals grazing at the water’s edge sound appealing? Then maybe a cruise on a houseboat on the Pongolapoort Dam, also known as Lake Jozini, is for you.
Cruises on Shayamanzi (meaning “hit the water”) I and II start from the magnificent Jozini Tiger Lodge, the perfect setting for a light lunch before heading off on your trip. The lodge boasts a wonderful view of the dam and the dam wall, which was completed in the early 1970s.
We were on a two-night cruise on Shayamanzi II, boarding at 2pm on Sunday and disembarking mid-morning on Tuesday.
Guests were welcomed on board with a glass of champagne and greeted by the captain, who gave a rundown about the cruise and boat, followed by the chef who detailed the menu for the next few days. Our charming captain was Bransom Chihota, a Zimbabwean who previously skippered boats on Kariba Dam, while the chef who prepared our delicious meals was Mike Phirri, originally from Malawi.
After the briefing, it was time to unpack and explore the boat. Each oak-panelled cabin comes en suite with shower, toilet and basin, and the ground level rooms have glass doors that slide open to let the outside in. The lower-level rooms have a window to enjoy the view.i
The upper level consists of a dining area, bar and a lounge, with plenty of couches on which to relax, whether reading, enjoying the scenery or having a nap. There is TV, DStv and a DVD home-theatre system, as well as a 12-seater heated jacuzzi for guests to splash about in.
A jukebox is available for those who want to party the night away, but fortunately it remained silent during our cruise or it would have spoiled the peace and tranquility.
Tender boats are attached to the houseboats and are used to take guests closer to the shore to fish or view animals and birds early in the morning and late afternoon. We saw an abundance of birds, including grey herons, eagles, yellow-billed storks and Jacana, which were described by our pilot as Jesus birds as they seem to walk on the water.
A kingfisher repeatedly dived into the water, but didn’t come up with breakfast, and we could almost have touched a giant heron that flew past us just above the water.
The pilot edged as close as was safe to a pod of hippo, we watched a young giraffe bending its long legs and neck to drink the cool water, as well as crocodiles, buffalo, elephant, a variety of buck, at least six rhino with young, warthog and zebra. Elephants are frequently seen frolicking in the water, but sadly it was a spectacle we missed. Being on the water gives bird and animal lovers the opportunity to see wildlife from a different perspective.
The dam is home to the famous, ferocious tiger fish, the only place in South Africa where they can be caught. Fishermen get a thrill out of catching them as they put up a fierce fight before being pulled out of the water. Barbel, tilapia and a few other species are also found in the dam.
There weren’t any terribly keen fishermen on board, but we all decided to give it a try. The crew assist novices by baiting up, casting out and taking over the rod when something bites. None of us was successful, although a few of us pulled out clumps of weeds and empty hooks.
The dam is 27km long and 5km at its widest point. It is overlooked by the majestic Lebombo Mountains on the eastern side, with Swaziland to the north and the Pongola Game Reserve and private reserves in the west and south.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are provided. Freshly baked muffins, cereal, fruit and yoghurt are available first thing in the morning, followed by a full breakfast once wildlife watchers and fishermen return from their early morning expeditions on the little boats. Snacks of biltong, dry wors, samoosas, sausage rolls, crisps and peanuts are served late afternoon, followed by a three-course dinner, all prepared in the small galley. Tea, coffee and hot chocolate are available at any time.
Each evening the boat anchors in a different location in coves protected from the wind and you can feel it rocking gently on the water as you drift off to sleep. I slept like the proverbial log.
The staff are all friendly, helpful and multi-skilled, performing tasks from steering the boat to off-loading luggage, teaching guests how to fish, serving meals and bar-tending. They also have very sharp eyes for game and bird-spotting and are very knowledgeable about the various species.
The six-cabin Shayamanzi I was built in 2001, while Shayamanzi II, consisting of 10 cabins, was built in 2007.
They offer exclusive charters for cabin cruises and day cruises, and cater for corporate and private bookings. The boats are also popular for reunions and special occasions.
You need to take cameras, binoculars, comfortable clothes – the dress code is casual, sunscreen and mosquito repellent (although none bothered us). You can also take reading material, but there are plenty of magazines provided.
Situated about 350km from Durban, travelling time is about three-and-a-half hours on a good road. The turn-off to Jozini is 10km beyond the town of Mkhuze and then you go over the scenic Lebombo Mountain Pass.
You will pass through the oTongathi toll (R8.50), the Mvoti toll (R10) and Mtunzini toll (R35), so keep some cash handy.
Rates exclude all drinks on board, bait and gratuities. Fishing rods are provided free.
For booking and rates, contact Elsabe Jordaan at [email protected] or call 034 413 2299 or visit www.shayamanzi.co.za
It’s a great getaway from the noise and rush of the city – you can feel yourself relaxing and wishing you could stay just a little bit longer. As Arnold Schwarzenegger would say: “I’ll be back.”
The Mercury