Blood and tears on the battlefield

Published Feb 27, 2014

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Durban - Hundreds turned up to witness the re-enactment of the battle of Isandlwana at the end of January.

Although it was not the first time this had been staged, this year there was a greater sense of excitement over plans to make more of the Zulu victory over the leading world superpower.

The battle, which took place on January 22, 1879, was an embarrassing blow to the redcoats with a death toll of 52 British officers, 727 white soldiers and 472 black members of the Natal Native Contingent.

Finally, the day they overcame the seemingly invincible imperial invaders was to get its due recognition.

King Goodwill Zwelithini addressed the crowd at this year’s re-enactment, accompanied by ministers and officials, and the Dundee Diehards re-enacted the stand against the Zulu horde. Of course it was a small-scale rendition, not a thousand or so against 24 000, but the crowd lapped it up. Local and foreign media too were suitably engaged.

KwaCulture used the occasion to unveil plans for a more extensive celebration of this legacy: a commemorative centre near the battle site comprising a hotel, conference facilities, a memorial and an interactive zone.

Rather than compete with existing B&B establishments in the area, such a development would draw more tourists and expand capacity from the limited base.

There are a few places to stay en route but, until the new buildings take shape, only Isandlwana Lodge is at the site. This architectural masterpiece was superbly woven into the mountainside just below the peak from which the Zulu general Ntshingwayo commanded his forces to victory over the British in the fields below.

Built of rock and thatch, the lodge blends into the mountain. If the design had not been so sensitive to the environment, pleasing heritage foundation Amafa, the lodge would have been an eyesore given its prominent perch.

Expanses of glass make the most of the sweeping view and the rock, thatch, solid beams, local slate and tile give the lodge an earthy feel. The rock walls curve, seemingly following the contours of the ridges.

The hospitality is typically African: warm and friendly with staff going out of their way to make you feel at home.

There are only 13 rooms in this boutique establishment, but they are spacious and well appointed. Activities on offer include horseriding, hiking, swimming and of course battlefield and birding tours. Plans for a motorised trail should be well received by the younger set.

Rates run to R2 200 a person sharing with substantial seasonal discounts. Call 034 271 8301/4/5 or 082 789 9544 to book or find out more. May to July is the quietest period.

There is a 9km gravel road from the tar turnoff, but you can manage driving a sedan sedately.

 

Their South African dream

It took two Americans to realise the vision of a lodge that would benefit the community of Isandlwana – Maggie Bryant and Pat Stubbs.

Retired after success in peanut farming, finance and construction, Stubbs was on the lookout for a tourism opportunity in southern Africa when a chance meeting on an aircraft with Bryant led to their partnership.

Co-owner Bryant, through the Wild Foundation, established a number of community upliftment initiatives, taking the lodge impact that much further.

Projects included encouraging “adopt-a-child” funding where donors sponsor a child’s school needs, fees and uniforms; encouraging lodge guests to donate and plant trees for orchards or seeds for vegetable gardens; and calling for sponsors of computer, lab and other equipment for rural schools.

Much of that thrust has since been picked up by Africa Unite, under Wilna Botha. The NGO has established a tearoom in the area and is working on crafts training, according to Stubbs. - Sunday Tribune

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