Durban - When Richard Chennels of the George Hotel in Eshowe said “the beer flows like the Tugela”, I didn’t realise he meant when the Tugela was in full flood.
I’m not saying that teetotalers won’t enjoy The George, but the mighty fine Zulu Blonde beer, brewed on site, is a good enough reason to visit for many.
Built on the site of the British residential commissioner, Sir Charles Saunders’ residency, the charm of bygone days still lingers in this rambling Zululand hotel with an interesting past. The George offers 27 rooms, a backpackers’ lodge, restaurant, conference centre (Mental Floss) and much more.
Chat to resident artist and raconteur Peter Engblom and you will discover a rich history, pictorial and otherwise, on and within the walls of the hotel – some manufactured, some dinkum, but after a few Blondes details seem irrelevant.
The Happy George Bar is the most happening place in Eshowe at night, except when there’s a get-together at the Pablo EscoBar at Zululand Backpackers behind the hotel. This spot would be happening in any city in the world, let alone a country town.
The George is an increasingly popular music venue with regular Friday night gigs. It’s also increasingly popular with golfers since Richard organises “golf and beer” weekends.
We never made tee-off, but my colleague, Lungani Zama, assures me the course (the nine holes he could manage) is a nice country layout, perfect for the family – and those nursing a hangover! The 7th and 8th enjoy glorious views down to the ocean, the course is not too demanding, they hire clubs if you ask nicely.
Hearty breakfasts outside Mama Zulu Coffee Shop, where those in the know pass through for good char to go, revived us in the mornings.
While breakfasts on the verandah were enjoyable, the dinner was really very good. The Roquefort and bacon fillet was superb, as was dessert, although we didn’t experience the ambience of Quarters Restaurant. There’s no standing on ceremony at The George. Chennels is forthright in extremis and The George is about “how do you do”, not the “what do you do” that South Africans are notorious for. The en suite rooms are comfortable, not grand. Importantly, our beds were very comfy and the showers doubled as massagers. There were flat-screen TVs, tea/coffee facilities, aircon etc, but we spent little time indoors.
The George proudly offers 101 things to do in Eshowe. Not all are in Eshowe per se, but a variety of tours start at the hotel daily. Prices vary and it’s slightly cheaper if you take your own car. We did a fair bit on our own, including a visit to the nearby museum complex incorporating the old British Fort, Lutheran church, art gallery, craft museum, restaurant and butterfly dome.
Eshowe is a prime butterfly and birding spot. My birder friend and I spent time in the Dlinza Forest, on the aerial boardwalk and the ground, in search of birds and some 80 butterfly species. Our best sighting, however, was the elusive duikers that grazed around us when we took a breather.
We enjoyed shisa nyama in town and sundowners atop Signal Hill. Unspoilt beaches and the Big Five are not far off. Nor are Anglo-Zulu and Zulu battlefields routes, wetlands, Shakaland and much more.
Quite a trip.
l Call The George at 035 474 4919 or visit www.eshoweaccommodation.com - Sunday Tribune