If there is such a thing as a “contented plop”, that is the sound the fish were making as they lifted themselves indolently from the water, seeking a tasty morsel, in the creek adjoining our log cabin.
While some of the cabins at Lake Eland Game Reserve are located on the shores of a dam, our setting placed us idyllically on a bend – with views of both the dam and the water lily-strewn creek. As heat hammered the land, this was a cool, soothing spot to escape the devil’s anvil.
The lure of a lazy afternoon perched on the deck of our cabin, fingers wrapped around an icy drink, was strong, but the thought of missing out on the sights soon launched me into explore mode.
Top of the agenda was the 80m long suspension bridge across a chasm, linking one side of the gorge with a small peninsula of rock which juts into the gorge.
This is the spot where young (and not so young) men were indulging in the fun of threatening to sway the bridge just as their women set foot on it. This was met with little shrieks, or admonishments to “grow up”. Here, too, was the loo with the longest drop in Africa.
Having crossed the suspension bridge, there is also the option of another small metal bridge jutting out over the gorge, with spectacular views. Far below, the river looked thirsty, begging for more water, but the indigenous bush, deep in the valley, looked healthy. This must have been exactly the sight that met early explorers hundreds of years ago – unspoiled, primal, lush.
There are two choices for returning: either back across the suspension bridge or a short meander through some of the indigenous bush, along the spine of the peninsula. There are other view points dotted along the rim of the gorge, while a level hiking trail also meanders its way along the edge.
Then there are the caves, or more accurately, an overhang, reached via 383 steps. Of course I could not resist. Not being exactly in the flush of youth adds a certain urgency to everything in life; no opportunity to explore must be passed up. While that number of steps might sound daunting, especially on the return journey up the hill, they were actually very shallow, so it was a doddle.
It was possible to imagine being a member of the San clan which once lived here, while studying the small exhibit telling about Bushmen rock art. This shelter overlooks Hell’s Gate, the start of the Oribi Gorge, as well as distant rolling hills and plains.
Back at the cabin, the sun was setting. Clouds reflected in the water made it seem as though fires were raging in the depths of the creek. A monitor lizard swam lazily, tail flicking from side to side. As it reached a lily pad, it tried to climb on top. Naturally the pad sank instantly beneath its weight, so the monitor threaded a course through the leaves. Lightning flickered, thunder rumbled, birds flew about frenetically. I looked forward to the drum of rain on the roof, but it never materialised.
This seemed the ideal time to read up a bit on the history of the area, while reclining on the large, plump bed. Apparently the earliest evidence that the Oribi Gorge had been discovered dates back to 1867.
At that time, a man known only as Dobie drew a map showing the Umzimkulwana River flowing east through the gorge before joining the Umzimkulu River.
Then in 1893 a Mr HC Lugg reported an abundance of game, especially oribi and birds in the area. The gorge was duly named for the antelope (which is now one of our country’s endangered species).
In 2003 Eric and Trevor Dunstone bought the land on which the 2 000ha Lake Eland is now situated, began fencing it in and stocking it with game.
A variety of animals inhabit the four distinct eco-systems: bushveld, grasslands, wetlands and coastal forest. While we did not see the elusive oribi, we had a delightful sighting of a family of eland out for a trot, and many blesbok with young.
Kudu, waterbuck, impala, red hartebeest, bush buck, blue and common duiker, reed buck, zebra, warthog, caracal, genet, porcupine, monkeys and baboons are just some of the animals in the reserve, while over 200 species of birds have been identified.
At night, the only sound was the crickets and cicadas. Early the next morning, the perfect place to have that first cup of coffee was on the deck, watching the water lilies unfold in deep shades of blue.
Then it was time to take a drive to the much bigger lake, down in the valley, where the fishermen’s cottages are located. We were told this also the setting for a 1 000m swim – a qualifier for the Midmar Mile.
There are several choices of accommodation: fully-equipped, serviced self-catering log cabins sleeping two to five people on the dam or creek; the honeymoon cabin with a private jacuzzi; a family unit close to the swimming pool and fishing dam; camping and caravan sites; or fishermen’s cottages, each sleeping six.
This being a family resort, there is much to keep the young ones entertained.
There’s a jungle gym, volleyball, a sparkling swimming pool, picnic spots, fishing, guided horse trails, mountain biking, paintball, canoeing, sailing, and day and night game drives.
There is a 4km cycle trail for the kids – within view of the parents who can relax in the tea garden alongside reception.
A 4x4 trail beckons those who want to put their off-road skills to the test.
Oh, and if I were in the market for a wedding, I would love to kick over the traces of convention and marry in the chapel on the hill, which was once a rustic, stone dairy.
The windows are just openings in the wall and some of the wedding guests could include game, munching on the surrounding lawns.
• Contact 039-6870395; e-mail: [email protected] or visit www.lakeeland.co.za - Sunday Tribune