Durban - It is hardly surprising, given that he lives at Rocktail BayBeach Camp within metres of the Indian Ocean surf, that Gus the Jack Russell terrier is not a landlubber.
Given the smallest of opportunities, he will leap aboard one of the boats taking divers beyond the breakers. Somehow, he manages to cling tenaciously to the RIB (rigid inflatable boat) which powers through the waves.
Today, though, he is alert… ears erect and looking ahead into the blue-green swell. The waves suddenly erupt and the flukes and fins of a humpback whale rise clear of the water. Then the creature lazily sinks back again.
We’ve come to dive the reefs off Rocktail, on the northern KwaZulu-Natal coast, but can’t resist this opportunity. One whale sighting turns into several as a group of the animals frolick on the surface, rolling flipper up and breeching. It’s very special… but then Rocktail is a special place.
As an experienced diver and instructor, I have dived all over South Africa and the world and this place is definitely on my memory list.
It nestles, far from the madding crowd, in the unspoilt beauty of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and offers personalised service, comfort, great diving and spectacular beaches. But for most divers, it remains uncharted territory and a destination for the “bucket list”.
When the opportunity arises to visit and, more important, to experience the diving, I leap at it.
Before departure, I have checked and re-checked my equipment (including cameras) and reviewed weather forecasts.
It takes just over eight hours to get to Rocktail Bay, so give yourself plenty of time to arrive in daylight hours… and don’t rely on your GPS. The written directions they supply are much more accurate.
At the camp entrance, we are met by a smiling, enthusiastic security guard called Lucky. He beams with joy in welcoming new guests to his camp. A first impression: warm and sincere.
At the central reception we meet Andrew Shaw, the manager, who gives us a quick brief on the routines and shows us to the luxury tented room. I think he realises that we are tired.
Rocktail Beach Camp has 17 rooms, each located in a way that ensures privacy and the opportunity to enjoy selfishly the unspoilt splendour of the indigenous forest that surrounds the camp.
The room is comfortable and spacious with a facility to lift tent wall panels to enjoy the view from the bedroom-lounge area or bathroom-shower.
This allows for the bird calls and the occasional sighting of a small deer to be appreciated.
We see a few monkeys, but they appear nervous of people and keep their distance.
After settling in and getting camera batteries on charge, we head to the central dining area, which consists of numerous wooden tables, well set out and romantically lit, on a covered deck.
The lounge area is adjacent and has four or five self-contained lounge seating areas with a wraparound bar at one end of the room.
After a slow drink we amble off to the dive centre… it’s open and airy, with adequate seating and kit up facilities.
Wet gear is collected, rinsed and dried around the back, which keeps the centre uncluttered.
The team running the centre have a really good reputation in dive circles, so I am anxious to see if their reputations are justified.
The first person we meet is Clive… peering out from under a Land Cruiser, but smiling as he greets us by holding out an elbow to shake. Nice to shake “hands on” management!
Inside the centre we meet the rest of the team: Michelle and Ondyne. Both are professional, charismatic and clearly very knowledgeable.
On the wall of the centre is a large painted map indicating the reefs available for divers. Examining these, it is clear that great thought went into theirnames.
There are 14 reefs to choose from, each distinctly different and certainly enough choice for several holidays.
Examining these reefs it’s clear that the dive management have sought out unique opportunities off the coast that would appeal to recreational divers looking for relaxed, long, lazy dives.
And why not… with the spectacular reef topology and abundant aquatic life it would be silly to contemplate promoting big blue diving.
Dive centres and destinations with little else to offer usually promote big blue diving and the lure of sighting fleeting pelagic fish to draw in divers. These tend to be short-lived experiences, however.
The shop is well stocked with a host of dive consumable items, such as batteries, mask straps, slates and clips, and they provide for the needs of individuals like me who love diving gadgets.
To accommodate guests travelling without equipment (who would do that?), the dive centre has a comprehensive range of Aqualung gear, in all the sizes and, from what I can see, in all the colours.
The equipment looks new, well cared for and is hanging up.
The following day we awake to the sound of gentle rain, and make our way to the dive centre.
We meet several other divers, including South Africans who are now living in Canada but who dive regularly at the Rocktail Beach Camp.
Their two children, who have visited Rocktail before, are now excitedly completing their Padi Open Water Qualification.
The drive to the beach is short and meanders through the indigenous forest. Once through a locked barrier we roll down a dune on to the beach.
It’s hard to describe the view… 40km, I’m told, of virgin beach – still and perfect with a gravity that wants to pull you into it.
Our first dive is to be on Gogo’s, a shallow reef (sub 18 metres) and about 10 minutes boat ride further north. Michelle volunteers to lead the dive and show us around.
We backward roll into the water and I sink immediately with the extra weight of my camera equipment.
Under the water, visibility is not great and the strong surge is a bit of a problem. Wide-angle shots would be compromised by the low visibility and the particles in the water, while macro photography would risk damaging the reefs.
It would be difficult to capture the obvious splendour of the reef.
Despite these conditions, one cannot help but be impressed with the reef and the variety of sheltering aquatic life, large and small. Compared with diving further north I notice that there seems to be a larger variety of marine life and the coral seems more delicate.
The water temperature is a cool21°C or 22°C. After 56 minutes, it is time to end the dive… and, on the ascent, we spot a huge Hawkbill turtle – Mother Nature’s way of guaranteeing we’ll be back.
Back on shore, we enjoy a casual but comprehensive breakfast at a vantage point on the edge of the forest. Conditions are bad, so a second dive is cancelled and we spend the afternoon lounging around appreciating the environment and the occasional (chilly) dip in the pool. This suited us perfectly, but for the more energetic there are numerous other activities available, including snorkelling at low tide, a trip to Lake Sibaya to see hippos and the occasional crocodile, quad biking or even horse riding.
On the following day – our last – conditions have improved and we decide to go to a reef called Pineapple. In the summer, this reef offers the opportunity to see, surprise, surprise, pineapple fish. During the rest of the year it has a resident population of curious potato bass, nudibranches, moray eels, clowns, paperfish and porcelain crabs among the usual reef inhabitants.
The encounter with the whale on the way to the reef sets the tone for what is to be a fantastic dive.
The reef topology is even better than that seen on the previous dive, with surprises at every corner. We see so much, but I am most excited by the tiny gas flame nudibranches. These are so delicate and so stunning that I’m always left breathless after seeing them. The famous potato bass, Boris, puts in an appearance, but only a fleeting one.
If you’re tired, looking to recharge your batteries, reconnect with the things in life that matter – spouse, family and diving – then, simply, Rocktail Beach Camp Rocks.
l Patterson is a PADI master instructor at Scubaversity and has been diving since 1998.
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Tel: 011 807 1800 - Saturday Star
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Three nights Rocktail Beach Camp: From R4 916 a person sharing. Includes dinner, bed and breakfast and four dives.
Excludes: Park fees, lunch, drinks, diving equipment, lodge activities, laundry and personal items
Valid to December 10, 2012. Minimum dive age: 12 years old.
Minimum of three nights.
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