Durban - Standing on the edge of the small trout dam, I looked around to see if there were any strong, silent types in waders nearby.
It being midweek, weekend fishermen were no doubt all suited out in an office somewhere. Even if they had been there, though, they would have been concealed by the thick mist which shrouded everything.
Even the gentle “plop” of fish lazily lifting themselves from the water was blanketed. I could have been somewhere in the Highlands of Scotland… with heather, Highland cattle and shaggy sheep also hidden in the mist.
Instead it was the Kamberg Valley, a beautiful place in any season. This time the weather roulette had landed on “Fine drizzle with misty overtones, and chilly breezes”. Ideal fishing weather.
Hovering on the bank of a river or dam, rod in hand, hankering after a steaming cup of coffee, is not my game, but Brackenburn Trout Retreat lured me hook, line and sinker – with its solitude, and strolls along the river in the company of Shadow, an exuberant young German Shepherd dog.
Set beneath Mount Lebanon, Brackenburn is also overlooked by Cleopatra Mountain, Jakkalskop, and Mount Erskine, which march in a semi-circle around it. Owners Evol and Attie Botha say many first-time visitors often arrive after dark. When they wake in the morning, they are overwhelmed by what had been hidden under the cloak of night.
There are two fully equipped self-catering cottages. One sleeps six, the other four. The smaller one has a bit of history, linked to sport of a different kind.
According to Attie, it was once the country retreat of the parents of rugby’s famous Danie Craven.
Both cottages, on the edge of one of three trout dams (stocked with rainbow and brown trout), are set amid a riot of flowering shrubs, privets and tall trees.
While they encourage catch and release, if guests want to keep their trophy, it will cost them R90 a kilogram. The fish range between 500g and 3.5 kg, including browns up to 2.5kg. The Bell’s Flyfishing competition in May draws men and women from all over South Africa.
Fishing rates at Brackenburn are calculated by hours fished, rather than a daily rate, as Attie says people do not fish all day, “so why charge them for hours unfished”.
Nearly half the guests, however, do not cast a line into the water, but are there just to relax and enjoy the mountain air.
According to the couple, otters can be spotted in the Little Mooi River, which runs through their 25ha property. Cormorants and fish eagle also visit.
Evol mentioned that the previous day she had spotted a lammergeier with wings spread, on their lawn.
They had also spotted 39 eland, among them 12 babies. Apparently rye-grass in a secluded spot is a big draw for eland, but there are also reedbuck and duiker.
There are 13 grass species and unusual wild flowers in the area. Double-collared sunbirds, dashing red-chested Bishops, and long-tailed weavers abound.
During my stay, a porcupine rooted out some tasty arum lilies next to one cottage, leaving a couple of quills as evidence.
The Bothas, who have been at Brackenburn for eight years, are keen to see a local farmers’ market established as people in the valley make home-made salamis, boerewors and rolls. Free-range eggs, chickens, fresh trout, vegetables, farm milk and tomatoes are available.
Oscar’s butchery, they say, rears pigs in the valley. There are large dairy farms and one of the top potato growers. There is also a plant nursery.
For those who don’t fish, there is a nine-hole golf course at Glengarry, bowls and horse riding.
For those who want a break from self-catering, options are: upmarket Cleopatra Mountain Lodge or Silver Hills (both by prior arrangement); Glengarry tea garden; and down-to-earth pub fare at The Knackered Swan.
When the sun finally emerged the next morning, fat thrushes hopped around the garden, while Egyptian geese honked their contentment.
On the way out, I switched off the car engine and listened to the babble of a small stream. “Take the sound of that back home with you, and remember it when you return to the noise of sirens and traffic in the city,” said Attie.
Advisory: Brackenburn does not charge per cottage, but per person: R210 and R130 per child at weekends; and R180 Monday to Thursday nights. Pensioner rates are R180 (including weekends if bookings are quiet).
Call 033 267 7190; 083 284 9086 or 083 778 2943; e-mail: [email protected] - Sunday Tribune