Most people know the name Howick from the roadsigns along the N3 on their way to Durban for a sun-drenched beach holiday. But Howick, a sleepy little Midlands dorp, is home to the Howick Falls.
A waterfall that some say harbours a legendary water monster which hides in the pool below the cascading water, devouring victims who fling themselves over. It looks like a horse, a snake or perhaps the Loch Ness monster.
Many tourists come to see the spot and are unaware of the history or the supposed danger that lurks below. Howick Falls is a very scenic spot and while it may not be as majestic as its northern neighbour, Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, it is the same height (95 metres) as Vic Falls.
Howick Falls lies on the Umgeni River and the Zulu people call it KwaNogqaza, “Place of the Tall One”.
While tourists watch the water plunging down the face of the gorge from behind the safety of a railing, on the opposite side Zulu washerwomen can be seen dipping and plunging their clothes in the rippling waters of the Umgeni before it gathers speed and plummets over the side.
It has been said that sangomas and tribes offer sacrifices and respects to the river snake – or Inkanyamba. This creature has a horse-like head and a long serpentine body. Legend says that when looking for a mate, an Inkanyamba will fly into the clouds. When angry, they can create storms much like Asian dragons.
The storms that ravaged Greytown, Ingwavuma and Pongola in years gone by were blamed on Inkanyamba. Those storms had tennis ball-sized hailstones and 80km/h winds. It caused 2 000 people to be made homeless. Apparently there are bushman paintings of this horse-headed serpent that archaeologists have dubbed “the rain animal”.
Tribal sacrifices are said to keep the river snake from becoming angry and punishing their villages. The river snake has the power to cause thunderstorms, lightning strikes and floods.
But while some people may believe the river snake causes death, others have used the height of the Howick Falls to leap to their death. To date 40 suicides have been recorded at this spot. One man died while trying to go over in a wooden barrel.
In the earlier days, many Zulu people and settlers were washed away while trying to cross the Umgeni River and they were washed down the falls. This is why it has a somewhat sinister reputation.
The mythical “river monster” that has allegedly been spotted in the pools below the Howick Falls seems to re-appear co-incidentally at full moon at the local pubs. Storytellers describe it as the beer flows. But scientific websites have pooh-poohed these claims as nonsensical.
It’s believed a local restaurant owner even offered a free meal to anyone who could provide solid proof that the monster existed.
The meal remains unclaimed to this date.
One lone busker sits on the steps to the falls, singing with his guitar. When I ask about the river snake, he giggles and looks away.
Tourists can visit Howick Falls and learn about other aspects of the town from friendly tour guides who volunteer information.
These folk (most of whom are retired) are members of the “Friends of the Falls” committee and are an incredible asset to the community.
They are donating their time and knowledge to tourists in an effort to help the town’s fledgling tourism industry. One volunteer told me how she had relocated from Pinetown after her husband died and how Howick was the best place she had lived in.
She confessed that the river monster myth was probably good for foreign tourists… nudge, nudge, wink, wink. She also directed me towards the Howick Museum which is filled with stunning artifacts. Remnants from colonial and Zulu homesteads are beautifully displayed.
Although most of Howick’s past industry was based on agriculture and a thriving rubber factory, times have changed and many people on farms have turned to the tourism industry, hosting people in B&Bs and manufacturing crafts and products for the tourism market.
The shops and craft stalls that fringe the tourism area are full of local wares and many Midlands people are creative and artistic. From leatherwear to weaving and painting, the creative genes are strong in the area.
The rich agricultural heritage is still a strong factor in the district but the Midlands beauty has drawn many tourists to the region. Wildlife and nature thrives in this temperate climate. Howick Falls is the main waterfall in the area but there are other smaller ones along the river ways.
Fish and birdlife are abundant. The English heritage of the settlers seems more obvious in this region than elsewhere and perhaps that is why a “nice cuppa tea” will be offered wherever you go.
Tearooms and restaurants in Howick are plentiful, but they are generally not of the exotic variety. You will get a lip-smacking plate of fish and chips, a delicious leg of roast lamb or scrummy scones and tea. But if you want fancy fusion food or sushi you are probably in the wrong neck of the woods.
Howick folk are a little cautious of strangers but can be delightfully warm and helpful. They respect the past and honour their elders and are slow to embrace technology. Internet connections are problematic in the area… and the adage “patience is a virtue” works well here.
That is why the retirement industry is booming with quite a few retirement homes brimming over and more being built. Older people love the simple way of life and the slower pace.
The Howick Falls were allegedly first spotted by European adventurers in the early 19th century, as transport riders and wagon trains established trade routes inland from the coast.
The history books say that English missionary James Archbell was granted a farm here, but the rapid increase in horse-drawn traffic soon compelled the English government of the day to expropriate a portion for the establishment of a village in 1851.
This settlement was then named Howick, in tribute to the Northumberland home of then-British Colonial Secretary, Earl Grey.
Our favourite pensioner, Nelson Mandela, was famously arrested near Howick in a little place called Tweedie before his treason trial and, in an effort to make up for this, he was given the Freedom of Howick in 1996.
Howick itself is a quaint little settler town and there are a few old buildings that have been saved from falling down. Most notable are the town library and the Anglican Church in Main Road. The Howick Falls Hotel, built in 1872, also has a proud history and it lists past guests as Mark Twain, Cecil John Rhodes and Paul Kruger.
It has been refurbished and renovated.
To see the Howick Falls from a historical setting you should visit the Yellowwood Cafe.
Situated on the opposite bank from the usual viewpoint, this restaurant offers a unique viewpoint.
The old farmhouse has been restored and is a perfect place to sample good food and also to gaze at the scenery.
The restaurant has a lovely archway of yellowwood trees and has a petting farm area for children.
Their menu caters for sophisticated tastes (ala carte) and it has a pub and grub menu.
They try to support the local farmers by buying fresh produce too.
Howick folk buy their fresh produce from a unique farmers co-operative called the Karkloof market… but that’s another story.
Things to do
• Karkloof Farmers Market: Get the best offerings from the local farms on a Saturday morning. Open only on Saturdays from 8am - 11am, this market offers a selection of fresh and home-baked treats. Enjoy a delicious breakfast and freshly roasted cup of coffee.Ph: 082 820 8986
• Coffee & Co: For the best fish and chips in town, try this little shop opposite the Post Office. Good service and great meals at reasonable prices.Ph: 033 330 3918
• Dovehouse Organics: Offering the best ingredients and fresh food from the earth, this shop and restaurant caters for the discerning shopper.Ph: 033 330 3554
• Nutmeg Bistro: Situated close to the main tourist shops, this restaurant offers delicious meals and the art on display will keep your eyes busy while you wait. Ph: 033 330 8373
• Umgeni Valley Nature Walks: This little patch of paradise offers hikes and gentle walking trails; you will see many bird species and there are giraffe, zebra and antelope. It is a great picnic spot and conference venue.Ph: 033 330 3941
• Howick Museum: For a small donation you can have a peek at the past and imagine how the early settlers must have lived. Ph: 033 239 9240 - Sunday Tribune