Durban - Mention the name Cleopatra and you might be forgiven for thinking of desert, pyramids, hieroglyphics, mummies…
But erase that image when it comes to Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse, a magical getaway in Balgowan in the Drakensberg, about a two-hour drive from Durban. It is anything but grand and imposing.
The reality is a pretty picture of rustic elegance and tranquillity, towering mountains and bumpy hills, a trout-filled dam edged in ever-busy weaver birds building nests. And some of the best food you’ll find locally.
Renowned as the ultimate KwaZulu-Natal gourmet getaway, established 14 years ago, it has won countless awards for culinary excellence and is a must-do for any food fan. And romantics.
The Cleopatra connection, says bearded, seemingly ever-cheerful Richard Poynton, the venue’s chef and owner, is that this warm and relaxed venue took its name from a regal profile carved by nature on to a rock edge of the Drakensberg.
Look towards the mountains when you leave the main road for the smaller road that leads to Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse and you will see what appears to be a profile that does look as if it could have been inspired by an Egyptian queen. Or, as a friend remarked, with tongue in cheek, perhaps even Barbra Streisand or Barry Manilow.
Renowned for his delicious, imaginative five-course meals which change daily, Poynton and wife “Mouse” owned the popular Granny Mouse in the Midlands from 1979.
They sold that in 1993 and spent four years in the UK, when Poynton attended course after course, and workshop after workshop, in Italy, France, Scotland, England and Sicily – all to improve his already-impressive cooking skills.
On their return to SA they launched Cleopatra, converting Poynton’s family farmhouse, acquired by his grandfather in 1936.
About 90 percent of the property, 500 acres of rolling hills with walking trails and a river, surrounded by majestic mountains, is the Highmore Nature Reserve, a world heritage site.
In more recent times Cleopatra has expanded, acquiring a large new dining room and a soon-to-be-completed grand suite in the original farmhouse building.
By the end of the year, it will also offer a spa, and years of planning will soon see the building of 12 exclusive private homes on the river bank a short stroll from the farmhouse and dam.
Poynton is adamant, however, that expansion will stop there, acknowledging that Cleopatra’s beauty is its intimacy and exclusivity – along with the fab food, of course, most of it grown on the premises or specially flown in (such as scallops from Skye in Scotland the night we were there).
Cleopatra offers only 11 rooms, ensuring a quiet and peaceful stay, and Mouse’s original decorating is a delight. Look out for many fun, quirky touches, including cheese graters and colanders as light fittings; rows of keys used as wall borders in the smaller lounge; and individually themed and immaculately detailed rooms with fun curiosities, assorted relics of yesteryear and handcrafted comforts.
The venue offers five luxury en-suite double/twin bedrooms; three spacious rooms en-suite with queen bed and separate lounge; one luxury room en-suite with extra-long queen bed, and two luxury en-suite cottages, one with extra-long bed.
All rooms have a television (nine channels), separate bath, separate shower and toilet, heated towel rails, minibar, complimentary sherry, delicious home-made biscuits, tea and coffee station, cotton sheets, mohair blankets and heated under-blankets.
On arrival one is greeted by friendly staff and resident dogs Treacle and Uju, who run about while staff attend to luggage after handing out small tin mugs of home-made hot chocolate and warm facecloths.
Lunch can be arranged, but a quite lavish cheeseboard, also offering cake (and included in the rate), is available from 1pm to 5pm in the main lounge overlooking the dam.
We spent much time there with glasses of wine, simply soaking up the views through large windows, alongside one of which is a table comprising an old bathtub with a glass top. Another quirky touch.
To work up an appetite for dinner there are a number of walks, while the less energetic might prefer to stroll through the grounds, admiring the large herb gardens, drinking in the views or standing on the lounge deck over the dam to feed pellets of food, left in a bucket for guests, to tease the ever-hungry trout.
The evening meal is the main reason many visit Cleopatra, of course, and Poynton, with his menu chalked up on a blackboard alongside him, relishes describing his course choices and ingredients.
He throws in anecdotes about his family and Cleopatra’s history, his travels and his passion for food (asides include how he recently blew R18 000 on two family meals at restaurants owned by celeb chefs Gordon Ramsay and Raymond Blanc).
Our meal was wonderful, the highlight for me being a starter of sautéed red onion and thyme encased in a caramel puff pastry on a reduction of pecorino and chives. Heaven!
It was followed by caramelised pumpkin soup with parmesan shavings, truffle oil and toasted pumpkin seeds, after which we had grilled scallops on a bed of lentils, leeks and herbs, topped with garlic aioli, caviar and fennel.
The main meal was deboned, small pieces of lamb shank on a baked potato cake with minted onion, butternut and peas. Dessert was sinful – lemon curd tart with liqueur-macerated cherries.
Cleopatra has its own underground cellar from which one can choose a premier SA wine .
Ten minutes’ drive from the venue you can park your car high up the mountains to enjoy three trout dams and wildlife, including eland, reedbuck, jackal, serval, rooikat and varied flora.
A visit to the San rock art at nearly Kamberg and Giants Castle is also worth considering.
Rates at Cleopatra, including cheeseboard lunch, all teas and coffees, cakes, five-course dinner, bed and breakfast (a heavenly affair with full buffet and delicious Bubble and Squeak when we were there) range from R1 595 to R1 995 per person per night sharing. Prices go up slightly from October 1 – rates ranging from R1 695 to R1 995.
To book, or for more info, visit www.cleomountain.com or call 033 267 9900. - Independent on Saturday