Head for the hills

Published Jun 7, 2011

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Penwarn Country Lodge lies in a picture-perfect valley traversed by two rivers. Zebra, wildebeest and antelope roam free across the plains, while the blue heights of the southern Drakensberg rise up to the west.

The lodge was bought by Peter and Barbara Dommett and amalgamated with Waterford Farm in January 2009. The joining of these two beautiful estates now enables guests at Penwarn to experience both the luxurious relaxation of Penwarn as well as the bustling world of Waterford farm, a commercial dairy farm with a horse stud.

Penwarn is a premier fishing location with seven dams and 8km of river. Five dams are stocked from their own trout hatchery and two are bass dams. Boats and rods are supplied and fishing clinics can be arranged for those who wish to perfect the art of fly-fishing.

When it comes to choosing lodgings at Penwarn, one is spoilt for choice; from self catering chalets to luxurious suites.

Ndabusche Lodge, built in the late 1800s from huge sandstone blocks, is the centrepiece. It’s a lovely old stone building in a delightful setting beside a dam and was converted in 1996 from stables and a dairy when Penwarn first opened its doors.

The seven spacious, individually themed rooms are well appointed. Meals are served in a quaint country pub atmosphere with log fires and good, wholesome food – much of which is homegrown – that remind one of the old fashioned Sunday lunches.

Perched on a hill overlooking the main Penwarn Dam and accommodating a maximum of eight, the sumptuous Mthini Lodge guarantees personal attention. The four luxuriously appointed rooms with en suite bathrooms are beautifully decorated and each opens onto the wooden deck with a spectacular view over the lake and a 180 degree vista of the indigo peaks of the southern Drakensberg.

It is a most delightful place to laze, enchanted by the constant dance of light and water between sky and lake and lulled by the mountain breezes and bird calls.

Self-catering options are diverse. The newly restored five bedroom manor house was built by the original settlers on Penwarn with stone brought up from the river and can accommodate up to 14 guests. Riverside Cottage under century-old oaks sleeps up to 12 and the more intimate Kudu Lodge overlooks the wetlands where the pair of fish eagles play and the other water fowl team.

The truly rustic (no electricity) log cabin on the very top of the hill has the most magnificent views and makes for a delightful back-to-nature retreat.

Besides fishing, there is plenty to do at Penwarn. Just walking through the veld and seeing the herd of wild horses and game is a wonderful experience, with the smell of warm grass and wild flowers, the peaceful tranquility, the panoramic views, the taste of spring water from the streams.

There is guided bird-watching, with over 280 species to spot. A visit to the San bushmen rock art sites is recommended, as is a farm visit to the Gentle Giants horse stud and Waterford dairy. The enormous draft horses – Clydesdales, Percherons and Shires – that Peter Dommett breeds are a glimpse of a bygone era. His large dairy farm too is proof that one can run a successful commercial dairy operation and yet still be environmentally concerned.

Horse riding on the Waterford horses is an experience. One can even take part in cattle roundups. Both experienced and inexperienced horse lovers will find resident horse whisperer Monde’s approach rewarding as he readily shares his gift and imparts his knowledge.

Adventure sports make Penwarn popular with adrenalin junkies. In summer, river swimming and tubing is great fun. You can try your hand at abseiling, archery, mountain biking, wing-shooting or quad biking – or even tough 4x4 orienteering. Day trips up Sani Pass can be arranged and paragliding and helicopter flips can be requested.

It’s easy to see why Penwarn is a perfect venue for challenging team building exercises. It’s also popular for conferences, weddings and other special occasions.

Dinner, bed and breakfast rates range from R600 to R1 170 per person and self catering from R250 to R450 per person. Accommodation packages can also be requested. Visit www.penwarn.com or call Barbara on 033 701 1368. - Sunday Tribune

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