You don’t see much bamboo in the Midlands. Or in the Karkloof area. So I was surprised to see hundreds of young bamboo plants under a covered tunnel as I arrived at Shafton Grange Guest House & Lipizzaner Stud at Karkloof.
I was torn between wanting to explore the beautiful old guest house and finding out about the bamboo plants.
Luckily I had enough time over the weekend to do both.
Turns out Craig and Kelly Rogers, who own Shafton Grange, are only the third people in the country to actually grow bamboo. These saplings will eventually generate an income once they’re sold as older trees, and when their branches are turned into (lucrative) charcoal.
“They’re hardy plants,” the amiable and energetic Craig tells me, “and are really thriving here.”
As are he, Kelly, his half-dozen hounds, a Manx cat and his Lipizzaners. An interesting snippet about the horses, by the way: when I commented that I’d always thought Lipizzaners were white, Craig informed me that they’re all born white but one in 400 will be black, one in 40 a bay. So there you have it.
The beautiful old homestead, built in 1852 by Edwin Parkinson, was the first house ever built in the Karkloof area. Although it has been extended over the years by several owners, the original yellowwood shed and barn stand untouched, the latter housing Craig’s prize stallions.
The barn, incidentally, might look its age but the actual house, which is set amid 52ha of lush kikuyu paddocks and gorgeous old-fashioned English country gardens (including several 150-year-old oak trees), is wonderful.
Double-storeyed, with its original wooden floors and doors, it boasts a true farmhouse kitchen with many of the original fittings, and the accommodation is equally sublime. The huge but beautifully appointed en-suite bedrooms have high ceilings and our room had stunning views of the Karkloof mountains. The five guest rooms (there are also two family rooms) have either king or single beds. Each room is named after a Lipizzaner line, so you might stay in Neopolitano, Conversano, Favory, Siglavy or Pluto.
I loved the cut glass sherry decanter on my table with two beautiful glasses. I also enjoyed the large and homely living room downstairs, with its gleaming yellowwood floors and fireplace, where, I’m told, in cooler months guests can enjoy a fine whisky or glass of red.
But it was hot and humid when we were there. Sipping an iced drink on the veranda, I learned that the affable Craig has a rather unconventional CV: the former St John’s College boy was a scuba diving instructor in Egypt for four years and is a talented dressage rider. He has also done a cooking course and is an absolute whizz in the kitchen.
We’d been asked, before we left Durban for our stay, if we would be dining at the Grange or eating out. We chose the former, and I requested child-friendly, plain and simple fare for my daughter and I: neither of us is into nouvelle cuisine. Craig created the most delectable hand-made beef patties on home-made rolls, with a choice of two sauces, one cheese and one mushroom. I had both. Ambrosial.
Although Shafton Grange is a bed and breakfast, you can arrange dinner here, or dine at one of the local eateries in Howick, just a 12km drive away. Craig was delighted he didn’t have to whip up a three-course meal, which he frequently does.
I must mention the eggs benedict Craig prepared for me the next morning. This was an outstanding breakfast, and I proffered no arguments when he declared that his are the best on the planet.
Shafton Grange has an added, rather novel, attraction. Ever wanted to consult your ancestors via a sangoma? Craig and Kelly have one resident on the property, so let them know if you want them to set this up.
My idea of heaven would be to spend a few days here – maybe weeks – sitting with my book under a tree or curled up in the lounge. The more acrobatic can choose from several energetic options. There’s a swimming pool, a wonderful kiddies’ playground (Craig has two), and horse riding, but Shafton Grange is also just a stone’s throw from the Karkloof Country and Polo Club, and no more than 5km from Karkloof Canopy Tours, the Karkloof Crane Centre and the Karkloof Falls.
L Shafton Grange is listed in the Portfolio Bed & Breakfast Collection. Phone 033 330 2386 or 082 872 0883, or e-mail [email protected] (website www.shaftongrange.co.za). - Sunday Tribune