Travelling north on the N2, revelling in the vista transforming from city clutter, sugarcane fields and tree plantations to bushland, is always a thrill. The drive earlier this month was especially inspiring, as recent rains had turned the previously parched Zululand landscape a verdant green.
A short 2.5km from the Hluhluwe off-ramp is the Ubizane Wildlife Reserve entrance, where we were greeted by grazing impala and nyala. A right turn takes you to the self-catering Zululand Safari Lodge and a left to the luxury Zululand Tree Lodge.
We went left (spoilt brats!), arriving to iced cocktails and a warm welcome. Wood and thatch, trickling streams and water features blend easily into the fever-tree forest. Then it’s a short walk to one of 24 private suites perched on stilts.
I loved the king-size bed draped in mosquito nets and fronted by sliding glass doors leading on to a spacious deck facing the forest. The view was enchanting, but I can’t lie about my concern over the lack of anything to block out the morning sun.
After being told to “get over it”, I did, largely thanks to the prospect of drinks at the bar and a hearty buffet dinner. Neither disappointed and, not surprisingly, bed beckoned long before my usual “witching hour”.
Having been talked into a 6am game drive to the nearby Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, the morning sun was a help rather than a hindrance. A strong cup of coffee partially allayed my bleating about the early Saturday start. Half an hour later, I was totally sold. Within minutes of entering the reserve, we were treated to a rare sighting of African wild dogs. Completely absorbed by two majestic rhinos, we might have missed the entire spectacle had it not been for our game ranger Hamilton Pita’s experienced eye.
“Quick, look,” he said, turning the jeep around to face a herd of zebra and wildebeest running down a hill. “Look in front!” Suddenly from the bush two wild dogs burst into view and charged across the road with the zebra and wildebeest in hot pursuit. “Keep watching,” he said, slowly inching the jeep down the road. And then the dogs were back on the road, seemingly posing for the tourist cameras before darting off. “That’s it. You won’t see them again,” he chuckled. We didn’t, but we did see more rhinos, buffalo, zebra, buck, giraffes, a crocodile and vultures.
Back at the lodge, breakfast was a treat, followed by a chill-out at the pool and a refreshing afternoon nap. With stars twinkling above us, dinner in the boma was the perfect end to an African dream. We met Norwegians, Americans, Germans and – on the walk back to our room – a few monkeys.
With a traditional African bedtime story tucked under our pillow, sleep came easily. No TV, traffic, music and mayhem.
After a perfectly relaxed Sunday morning, we asked manager Tanja Bedford to show us the more family-friendly Safari Lodge. Here, rondavel rooms – two or four-sleeper with en-suite bathrooms – with fully equipped kitchens and patios offer a different experience – wide open spaces with a busy central watering hole nestled under Amarula trees, play park, swimming pool, games room and boma.
Whichever suits your lifestyle or pocket, Africa is calling.
l Debbie Reynolds was a guest of Ubizane Tree Lodge.
Facilities: Conference centre, weddings
Activities: Game drives, guided walks
Cost: Zululand Tree Lodge from R1 000 per person per night dinner, bed and breakfast sharing. Safari Lodge from R350 per person per night sharing (self-catering)
More info: www.ubizane.co.za
Reservations: [email protected] - The Mercury