Illusion of luxury

Published Feb 4, 2011

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“Illusion is the first of all pleasures,” reads the wallpaper on the wall of Gigi’s Brasserie. Hotel Izulu lives up to this maxim par excellence. From the moment we drive up the winding driveway hidden away from bustling Ballito, up to the paved courtyard with its dancing dolphin fountain, to the moment we leave, reluctantly, a day later, Hotel Izulu assaults our senses in the best way possible.

My husband and I arrive hot and irritable after a stressful drive through the quagmire of Friday afternoon traffic.

We’re greeted by hotel manager Monique Naude and our car is whisked away by a valet. She escorts us to a luxurious double suite set inside a Greco-Roman-Tuscan-styled villa. The architecture is perfect, harmoniously complete with majestic pillars surrounding a Roman-styled Jacuzzi on the ground floor of the villa.

A four-poster bed dominates the room, while a small lounge with an inviting bottle of wine takes up another corner. French doors open onto a wrought iron balcony overlooking the manicured gardens.

I ignore everything except the enormous tub in the bathroom. It’s inlaid into marble, with more impressive pillars holding up the ceiling. A bowl of coarse bath salts with aromatic herbs and a large perfumed candle entice me. A large window alongside the bath reveals a triangle of sea above the surrounding shrubbery.

While my husband goes to explore and get himself a well-deserved beer, I have a peaceful soak by candlelight in aromatic bath salts. Soon I’m restored and dressed for dinner at Gigi’s Brasserie. The promise of a five-star meal certainly requires I put on my glitzy jacket.

Gigi’s Brasserie has just undergone a revamp. The intimate venue breathes executive chic. Faux leather chairs with brass studs mimic the business class feel of the white linen tablecloths with redantimacassars. Fine glass and silverware adorn the tables and we’re seated by our waitress for the evening, Jabu Mlungwana.

My husband chooses one of the house wines which are of exceptionally good quality and I stick with my usual whisky and soda. That’s when I spot the wallpaper on the walls. “Illusion is the first of all pleasures”, it reads. Well, the illusion of luxury is certainly beginning to take its effect on me.

I order the Caprese salad and my husband orders the Portuguese squid for starters. Before these arrive though, we’re presented with a complimentary French onion and Gorgonzola soup courtesy of the chef, Guy Gorrie. Its superb piquancy promises that we’re in for a treat from this internationally trained chef.

My Caprese salad arrives. It’s a crisp plum tomato stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and basil pesto in a balsamic sauce. It’s an exquisitely delicate combination of flavours presented as a piece of art on a white plate. My husband’s squid is equally delicious he assures me. It consists of squid tubes stuffed with squid tentacles with bacon, onion and parsley bread served with a squid risotto. It’s a treat for a lover of squid.

Between courses we’re served a light berry and cinnamon sorbet to clear our palates. It’s at precisely this moment that I rejoice in my job as a reviewer.

Our second course consists of a delicate Norwegian Salmon in a champagne sauce for me and a no-nonsense Beef Sirloin in a pepper sauce, served with fat chips and creamed spinach. My salmon is perfect, crispy skin seared to perfection. My husband’s steak is just how he likes it: rare and tender with a zingy sauce.

To end our meal we both have the chocolate soufflé with cognac custard and orange truffle. We have an Amaretto with our dessert and it’s the perfect end to an exceptional dining experience.

Gorrie and Naude meet us later to talk about their vision for this restaurant and the hotel. The hotel is making the most of Gorrie’s unquestionable talent by including a few special features in their menu of options for diners. The newly introduced chef’s table allows a party of 12 food lovers to dine inside the kitchen itself. A glass panel separates them as they watch the chef create his masterpieces. Gorrie includes the diners throughout the meal, discussing his choices and how he creats culinary masterpieces. The evening will consist of not only a fine dining experience but also a master-class in haute cuisine for a special party of guests.

There is also the option of hiring the exclusive cellar for an evening meal. Seated below the hotel in the dark cellar, large pillar candles lighting the rustic table, guests are served a menu of their choice. This option caters for more privacy for special events as well as allowing wine-lovers to browse through the cellar’s fine wine list.

In the morning we breakfast in the courtyard overlooking a large Roman-styled swimming pool. While dragonflies flit above the water, I have an omelette soufflé of exceptional lightness while my husband tucks into a more robust full English breakfast.

Later we’re shown the lovingly tended organic herb and vegetable garden watched over by a scarecrow. An all-embracing row of pillars surrounds the garden which overlooks the sea. The garden completes the illusion of being in Tuscany. It’s not hard to see why this garden holds pride of place for both Gorrie and Naude. Attention to detail is the key to success for these two specialists. These details work together to create the reality behind the illusion of luxury, excellence and good taste which is Hotel Izulu.

We leave with a satisfying feeling of having enjoyed the finer things in life.

l Janet van Eeden was hosted by Hotel Izulu

l Hotel Izulu has an award winning spa and full conference and wedding facilities. For more information go to www.hotelizulu.com or phone: 032 946 3444. - Sunday Independent

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