Our neighbours were rather noisy. Every so often they chastised each other belligerently then, having sorted out their differences, settled down to amicable, contented hurrumping.
We were staying in a bush camp tucked into the coastal dune forest on the shores of Lake Bhangazi South, near Cape Vidal, in KwaZulu-Natal’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Our window overlooked a scene of hippos lolling lazily on the creamy sands fringing the lakeshore. They regularly let us know, in the most charming fashion, that we were simply guests in their terrain.
At night, these wake-up calls were particularly welcome. They drew me to the window to see a full moon casting silver light over the water.
The cottages are reached via a wooden walkway, and one of the best spots to hang out is in the lounge with big picture windows overlooking the lake. The sound of samango monkeys chattering their contentment and the haunting call of fish eagles add to the scenario.
About three years ago, the Wetland Park Authority told the Sunday Tribune of their plans to upgrade the park – which includes some 6 percent of the South African coastline – in order to enhance the visitors’ experience. Now they wanted to show us it had not just been talk. Would we come along to see the results?
We began by entering the park on the road to Charters Creek and Fani’s Island on the Western Shores. Both camps, once hugely popular with fishermen, have been closed for some time (a shortage of water being the main reason), but are currently receiving some nip and tuck before re-opening next year.
In the olden days, visitors to the camps wishing to visit St Lucia had to return to the N2 and take a round-about route. Now, a new link road on the Western Shores of the lake provides an easy shortcut. But for those not on the production line of time, there is a longer loop road. Both provide a chance to spot wildlife.
This area is a popular stomping ground with the elephants which were reintroduced into the park, and its plains are also favoured by the cheetah.
Our first surprise came taking a walk down a new concrete pathway and boardwalk in the vicinity of the Big Tree on the Western Shores. Emerging suddenly from the indigenous forest, we came across an unexpected vista: the narrows – which connects Lake St Lucia with the estuary. In the distance, on the opposite shore, we could see the bush-clad dunes of the Eastern Shores. Birdlife dipped and called in the sky, or fluffed their feathers as they glided on the water.
As with all the walkways in the park, this one is wheelchair friendly. Pawprints in the concrete – the work of local artists, who created the necessary friezes – give the impression that wild animals have inadvertently stepped onto the pathway before the cement dried. With time, leaves and twigs will fall on the walkways, making them look softer and more natural.
We were assured that these new Western Shores drives will be open to the public in time for the Christmas holidays.
On the Eastern side of the lake, we popped in at various picnic and braai spots, walked along other newly laid-out pathways, and wandered onto decks which provided views of the lake. We climbed up other paths leading to the top of the dunes, to see the Indian Ocean sparkling far below.
The deck at Catalina Bay (where seaplanes once landed) is particularly evocative and is a popular spot for people to enjoy sundowners.
New bird hides have been laid out. Some merely have screens, but one of the more dramatic hides is built on different levels (including a basement level) and looks rather like an adobe castle.
We spotted kudu, rhino, hippo, reedbuck, waterbuck, wildebeest, buffalo, woolly-necked storks.
At one spot, tannin-coloured water was spilling through from the swamps. We were told sometimes this acts as a lure to thousands of catfish who frantically thrash their way from one stretch of water to the other. The water literally boils with their frenzied activity, and the fish eagles become so bloated on their fishy feast, they can barely fly.
The natural growth differs considerably on the two sides of the lake, as the Eastern Shores receive almost double the rainfall of that on the Western Shores.
Loop roads take in the various kinds of terrain: vlei, dune, pan, grassland and forest (which is still being completed).
The removal of thousands of trees in the plantations which once throttled the shoreline has had a huge positive effect. A river which once hardly ever flowed, helped supply Lake St Lucia, even at the height of the drought.
At Cape Vidal, about R7 million has been spent on upgrading the campsite. Roads have been upgraded, as have ablution blocks and sewage systems. All the campsites have been fitted with electrical points and new taps, while two sites, with their own ablution facilities, cater specifically to people in wheelchairs.
New improved entrance gates to the park; new road signs being installed and alien vegetation removed – all are providing work to local communities living around the park.
Visitors will have many activities to choose from: whale-watching; deep-sea fishing and scuba excursions; game drives (including night drives); turtle tracking in season; boat trips on the lake; walking trails; snorkelling along the reefs, to name just some. Then, of course, there are kilometres of glorious, golden beaches.
Even though it was midweek, we encountered a surprising number of cars and people. Many were on day visits, others were staying in the park. We were told that gate numbers had increased by 6-9 percent each year over the last five, despite the global recession.
One family from Limpopo Province, sitting on one of the decks, beneath the trees, reading books, personified exactly what the Wetland Park is hoping to achieve. They said they had already spent 16 days holiday there, and never been bored. “We will definitely be returning next year.” - Sunday Tribune