It’s a remarkable destination. Not just because it’s so beautiful and thoughtfully designed. Nor because the spa is one of the most unusual and inviting you’ll ever visit. Nor, really, because it’s steeped in history – Cecil John Rhodes lived here with his brother Herbert and they farmed cotton together.
Duma Manzi Eco Lodge & Spa is remarkable because it’s close to the city, yet could be miles away. Just outside Richmond, it’s set amid 5 000 pristine hectares of malaria-free wilderness in the Umkomaas Valley. And despite being roughly 40 minutes from Durban, it’s the nearest thing to Utopia you could find.
The Cecil John Rhodes Heritage Site is in the heart of the reserve, and Hilltop House, built in 1880 by Rhodes, has been kept in its original state by the owners and offers a bygone-era colonial experience.
On arrival at Duma Manzi, you park at the reception house where friendly rangers transfer your luggage to a Land Rover and trundle you down a winding dirt road to the valley below. En route you’re exposed to breathtaking views of the Umkomaas and the sandstone cliffs framing it.
And when you reach the bottom, you’re awed by the magnificent lodges: Sandstone and Fish Eagle. Set on the banks of the river, the accompanying chalets are a treat: private, luxurious – ours had its own private plunge pool on the wooden deck outside, and we looked straight on to the river and the cliffs opposite – with exquisite bathrooms.
Our party was unanimous: the food was fantastic. As was the service.
And what better way to awaken than to be greeted by a wide-eyed duiker pitter-pattering outside our chalet as it delicately nibbles at juicy stems.
Our hearty breakfast was followed by a bush walk along the river bank, among the giraffe and the buck. The former are astonishingly tall when you’re standing beside them. For the children, it was a highlight.
The reserve is home to white rhino, buffalo, zebra, blue wildebeest, kudu, oribi, reedbuck a variety of small game, and more than 300 bird species, including my favourite, fish eagles.
Guests have a choice of guided walks with one of the lodge’s rangers, or self-guided ambles. You can opt for the less strenuous wander following the river, as we did, or up the gentle slope of the hill behind the lodge, on a more adventurous trail to the cliffs. Sedentary types might also enjoy a game drive, and the stop at one of the extraordinary lookout decks… and the experience of an African sunset.
The spa will knock the socks off you. I’ve never seen anything like it. Designed and built as a series of caves, it’s awe-inspiring, and two amazing treatment rooms overlook the river.
Facials, massages, aromatherapy, Indian head massage… there’s a vast range from which to choose and, even better, it’s accompanied by nothing more intrusive than bird calls and silence: none of the canned music you get at salons.
It accommodates only eight guests a day, ensuring privacy and individual attention. The two little girls with me were treated to al fresco manicures, while I indulged in a fab facial.
If you like fishing, you’ll want to know that a variety of indigenous and exotic fish are to be found in the river: carp, sharp-tooth catfish (barbel), KZN yellowfish, African mottled eel and chubby headed barb.
And if you’ve forgotten to pack your fishing rod, you can hire one from the lodge. While dad’s fishing, the kids might want to do some butterfly- and frog-watching. Both are abundant here.
With all of this natural beauty on its doorstep, it was hardly surprising to learn the lodge is eco-friendly, to the extent that it operates without electricity, relying on solar energy and back-up generators. Gas is used for hot water, cooking and heating, and there is no airconditioning, only wonderfully large, cooling industrial ceiling fans.
Natural light is used wherever possible, and energy-efficient lighting is used in all guest locations, employee work and storage areas. Only energy efficient light bulbs are used.
The whole eco theme is carried throughout the lodge, with water reducers fitted to the showers to conserve water, and innovative water-saving mechanisms fitted to all lavatories.
The pools are part of an Eskom pilot project, and use an ozone aerator, a first in South Africa, and all grey water is pumped into holding tanks and repurified for use in irrigation of the reserve plants.
Duma Manzi staff are stringent about recycling and organic kitchen waste is composted on site and used in the worm farm and on the lodge grounds and gardens.
“Green” building methods and products were used where possible in the construction of Duma Manzi, with natural materials such as glass, sandstone, rocks, recycled bricks, thatch, and even alien tree purpose-designed bars, benches and tables.
All adhesives, sealants and coatings were environmentally friendly.
I’d go back to Duma Manzi tomorrow, preferably for a month this time. The fantastic staff, accommodation, cuisine and general experience were unforgettable.
• Useful info: Duma Manzi Eco Lodge & Spa, telephone 033 212 3363, e-mail [email protected] or log on to www.dummanzi.co.za - Sunday Tribune