Village people

Published Mar 12, 2012

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DumaZulu (Thundering Zulu is one translation) conjures up images of proud warriors in full regalia, singing and pounding out their intent on the earth with hardened feet. And it is certainly something you will witness at Gooderson Leisure’s DumaZulu Lodge and Traditional Village in Hluhluwe.

I’ve been to a couple of these in my time and have left thoroughly unimpressed, but this is different. Maybe it has to do with its stamp of authenticity, being the only such village opened by Zulu King Goodwill Zwelithini, or the fact that it’s South Africa’s biggest cultural village.

I was particularly impressed by our guide, Isaac Nhleko, who has been there since it opened in 1994. Isaac gave us real insight into local customs, history and traditions in this circular village of woven huts, housing about 50 people. These include a healer, a sangoma, shield makers, potters, basket weavers and many dancers.

With ears thrumming from the drumming, we made our way to the adjacent “village” of 21 rounded ethnic huts – housing 19 twin rooms and two double rooms – also arranged in Zulu kraal fashion around a central area and surrounded by forest.

The huts surround a pool next to the play gym for the children. The hut exteriors are designed to reflect the different tribes of southern Africa – Zulu, Swazi, North Sotho, Xhosa, Venda, Tsonga and Ndebele.

Their interiors are well designed and comfortable, reflecting the rustic, warm colours of Africa – burnt oranges, rich reds and deep browns.

Each unit includes an en-suite bathroom, airconditioning, telephone and tea/coffee making facilities. Ten huts are self-catering units which sleep a maximum of four (twin beds and day bed) with a little kitchenette and breakfast nook, giving the option of home cooking or dining at the lodge restaurant.

The restaurant and bar have a relaxed atmosphere – airy and open-sided – and you can have breakfast as well as traditional Zulu barbecue lunch and buffet dinners. Hein Fritz and his staff are charmingly friendly and dinner is a fabulous, filling affair, nicely rounded off with a chat around the boma fire.

Next to the restaurant is the well-stocked curio shop-cum reception. All products and produce sold on the property are made from natural products and sourced from the land – 100 percent green and a way for the local community to practise their traditional ways and earn a profit.

The lodge also has a thatch-roofed lapa, with seating for up to 120 people, which is available for events, functions or team-building, as well as an indoor boma ideal for conferencing.

On the far side is the reptile park, which is well worth a tour and which has the largest collection of snakes in the area as well as crocodiles and numerous other cold-blooded, scaly specimens.

I thoroughly enjoyed my stay – relaxing, unfussed and unhurried. I was starting to feel like a white Zulu myself in the days before clocks, computers and cellphones, and I do recommend putting those aside and get in tune with the rhythms of the place.

DumaZulu is but a hop and a skip away from several game reserves and Lake St Lucia. A variety of tours – or a cruise on the lake – can be arranged by the lodge. It is about two and a half hours from Durban. For more information and for reservations call 035 562 2260, e-mail Thobile Mtambo at [email protected] or see www.goodersons. co.za. - Sunday Tribune

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