Durban - When something launches, it is always fascinating to look at some of the legends surrounding the place. While that was my priority, obviously I also wanted to see what the Western Shores of the Park has to offer.
We entered via the new Dukuduku Gate, some 3km before St Lucia. It has facilities for the disabled, a smart reception area, with a spot for vendors to display their wares.
My guide, iSimangaliso chief executive Andrew Zaloumis, ticked off the list. The Western Shores is popular with elephants (who sometimes make a sortie to the eastern side of the lake), giraffe and nyala. Tsessebe, too, are breeding well here. From west to east, animals roam through eight different ecosystems before reaching the sea, he said.
Buffalo have been introduced, and it is the intention to bring in eland.
“Animals will be able to move as they used to do, as many of the ancient migratory paths will again be open,” said Zaloumis. “With the removal of plantations, valuable grasslands have again flourished. Visitors are able to see across some 30-40km of wilderness, with Lake St Lucia plumb in the middle.”
The uMpathe River, which we followed for a time, is the only one which brings water into the lake during times of drought, said Zaloumis.
From a new observation deck, under an enormous, spreading Cape Ash tree, reached via a meandering concrete walk – dotted with artificial hoofprints and spoor of various animals – there is a splendid view across the lake.
I could almost imagine animals lining up two by two, to place their dainty prints in the concrete, as the person in charged called “Next, next…”
Amadoda Pan was an absolute water wonderland of activity.
Spurwing and Pygmy geese, white-faced duck, shovellers, crake, egrets, lillytrotters, dabchicks all caused a flurry of ripples as they dived and swam, while making contented calls.
We also came across many enigmatic rainbirds sitting on dead tree branches.
Zaloumis recalled how his father, Nolly Zaloumis, had been the first person to breed spurwing geese in captivity.
He pointed out that some 1 500 new, improved directional, safety and regulatory signs had replaced some of the 2 500 existing signs.
The many new game drives, tourism attractions and gates have made this necessary, he said.
All this has been done by the iSimangaliso Authority to make things easier to find, without impacting negatively on the environment, he said. Many of these signs include GPS co-ordinates.
“While it might appear simple, it was actually a complex process, as we also had to take into account the tendency of large animals such as rhino and elephants to use signs as scratching posts, when choosing our construction material.
“Directional signage from the national and provincial roads to iSimangaliso’s ‘Ten Jewels’ is also being upgraded,” he said.
As historical and cultural issues have all come into play, extensive research was done in consultation with community elders, local Zulu linguists and historians.
This, for me, was the most fascinating part.
Armed with an interpretive map, with a number identifying each spot, visitors will be able to trace the cultural history of both the Western and Eastern shores.
iSimangaliso Western Shores Section:
eMgadankawu Hide: Monkeys used to perch on the treetops here, 'on guard' for their troop's safety.
uMngamanzi Pan: Named after the uMngamanzi tree (Acacia Robusta) which used to grow next to the pan.
Kwelezintombi Pan: Where young, unmarried girls used to bath. The matrons would beat the Amatshitshi (young virgins) forcing them to say who had proposed to them, or those suspected of having boyfriends to tell the matrons who they were.
Kwelamadoda Pan: The pan where men bathed.
uMthoma aerial boardwalk: named after the huge Cape Ash tree around which the boardwalk has been built.
Kwelezinyathi stream: Where buffalos lived. They once abounded in this wetland area.
uBhejane picnic site: Named for three black rhino. A group of marula trees flourishes here. Many years ago, this place was known as Emangxengeni isigodi.
eMhlahlandlela: Believed to mean 'trail blazer.'
kwaMsweli: Where the iNduna (headman) Mswelis' homestead was located. Some locals identify it with mahogany and albizia trees found in the area.
kwaMfekayi: This was iNduna Mfekayi's homestead.
kuChibingiyosho Pan: Literally means “I will tell you something.” Cultural experts, though, are uncertain what that something is.
Kwelezimboma: Named after the many hippos (iziMboma) which used to be found here.
eBhumeni stream: iBhuma is a certain type of reed used to make mats, which was mainly found here.
Kweyezalukazi (hill) or EmaSundwini (date palm) lookout: iZkukazi (old ladies) used to meet at this hill to gather food, which would be sent to the iNkosi after the first harvest - a sign of thanks to God and their ancestors for good produce and a good harvest. Many palm trees are found in this area.
iSimangaliso Eastern Shores Section including Cape Vidal:
Kwesomdumo quarry: A certain tree was often struck by lightning, catching alight, during electric storms, so the Bhangazi people named it Kwesomdumo (Thunder).
Amazibu Pan: For the water lilies growing there.
Izindondwe Pan: Where a Bhangazi woman was killed by a crocodile, while fetching water.
Nkamfuya Pan: Every winter, Bhangazi women 15 years and older would herd the cattle to pasture. They would visit every homestead, be given a chicken, and then take a ritual bath to rid themselves of bad luck. The entire ritual was taken in the nude.
uMziki viewpoint: This area had a proliferation of reedbuck, as could be seen by their spoor.
Nkoboyi picnic site, below Mount Tabor: From here you can see the homestead of Sikhondlakhondla (Gumede) a mighty warrior from the Bhangazi community. An excellent stick fighter, he was reported to have only worn an ibheshu (leather apron), conquering everyone who challenged him. He was forcibly removed in the 1950's.
Lokothwayo cattle dip: Such dips were frequently the only infrastructure in the area. This one, in the south-west corner of Lake Bhangazi, was probably built in the 1930's by the Colonial administration. As people were pushed northwards, by the 1970's few remained around this area. The cattle dips were no longer used and, it seems, cattle were then dipped in the sea at Lake Vidal (Bhangazi) to rid them of ticks.
These are just some of the multitude of spots to visit within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and learn more of its fascinating history. - Sunday Tribune