“Kokstad? Why’re you going to Kokstad?” This was the universal question when I mentioned to friends I’d be taking a trip to the East Griqualand town to visit the Willowdale Lodge. “That’s that place you pass when you’re heading to the Transkei (now part of the Eastern Cape), isn’t it?” was a common chirp, usually hotly followed by: “Ja, you check the Kokstad sign, but you never check in.”
Well yes, but now I had a reason to explore. Plus, I’d heard from a friend, who’d visited Kokstad via Underberg, that it was a great drive and there was some cracking scenery around the town. And then, of course, there’s the historical angle – this small town has loads of history worth investigating, including the story of the leader of the Griqua people Adam Kok III.
Willowdale Lodge is an old farmhouse cleverly converted by owner Max Bastard (yip, the surname is Bastard). Cleverly, I say, because while Bastard has knocked down a few walls here and there and done some cosmetic surgery, the place still retains that old country home feel.
We stayed in an en suite bedroom with an immense bed and the most comfortable sheets ever. Just outside the room was an old wrap-around verandah, excellent if you want to grab a book from the lodge’s well-stocked library and have a quiet read.
And – meaning no disrespect to the owners of the lodge, which is a fantastic venue – that’s the best thing about Willowdale Lodge… the peace and quiet. This is, without doubt, the most tranquil getaway venue, with just the gentlest of breezes troubling the willows.
The food is a treat (they’ve just invested in a hot-shot new chef).
Another interesting aspect is all the old family history that’s been retained in the lodge’s pub area. Friendly manager Dolla Bruce filled me in on some of the detail: what caught my eye were pictures of prize-winning cattle at agricultural shows – for example, Mr ES Bastard at The Royal Agricultural Society of Natal – giving some clue as to the family background.
Then there are the pictures of Springbok rugby player Ebbo Bastard playing for the Springboks against the British Lions in 1938 and a Springbok team picture of the 1937 tour to New Zealand and Australia including the same player.
In the area there are quite a few activities to pursue. On a neighbouring farm a bird hide has been built, which can be accessed by enthusiastic birders, while there are plenty of cycling and hiking tracks around. Fishing and horse riding can also be arranged.
I took along my running shoes and cheekily used a neighbouring farmer’s gate to access a trail into the hills.
The beautiful Ingeli Forest, which looks well worth exploring, is nearby… look out for the Ingeli Forest Lodge. Across the road from Willowdale Lodge is a self-catering venue that also boasts an excellent antiques and furniture shop. The Maria Telgte Mission, established by Trappist monks, is nearby in Swartberg.
Then there’s the town of Kokstad itself, rather grubby and uninviting, but boasting some fascinating history.
In a nutshell, Kok led his people from Philippolis in the southern Orange Free State across the Drakensberg, after continual conflict with the Boers.
At the end of the journey, Kok established the settlement that now bears his name. The Adam Kok monument and resting place on the main street (adjacent the police station) is worth a visit; it’s a rather sad affair, with weeds sprouting all over the place and testimony to the neglect of this important historical figure.
Locals told us that the East Griqualand Museum is well worth visiting, although, as we found out, it’s closed on a Sunday.
So the next time you feel the need to get away, why not investigate Kokstad. I could imagine nothing better than spending a couple of chilly winter’s afternoons snuggled up in the Willowdale Lodge lounge, perhaps a sherry in hand while being looked after by Dolla and her team. - Sunday Tribune