I caught a glimpse of the large grey shape out of the corner of my eye and shouted: “Rhino! Stop! Stop!” The game drive vehicle skidded to a halt in a cloud of dust. But that was enough to spook the huge female white rhino, and in a flash she and her young calf had bolted across the track and into the cover of deep bush.
I was so surprised – and so was everyone on the vehicle – by the sighting that I didn’t have time to pick up my camera and get off even one frame.
Many years ago, when I was learning my trade as a photographer on The Star, I would have been chewed out from a dizzy height for “missing the shot”. And, in those days, the chief photographer or the picture editor would not have been interested in any excuse… even abduction by aliens wouldn’t have worked.
Yet, in my defence, here in the bush of the Marakele National Park in the sublime unspoilt paradise of the Waterberg, it’s easy to get lost in the surroundings.
The dramatic spine of the Waterberg mountains contrasts with bush thickets and open savannah plains.
And, although there is a serious concentration of game (I won’t reveal the rhino population for obvious reasons), it is often not easy to see them for two reasons.
The animals are nowhere nearly as habituated to human beings and vehicles as are their counterparts in the Kruger National Park. That is understandable, given that the 23 000-hectare Marakele reserve came into existence only in the early 1990s and, because it has limited, and upmarket, accommodation facilities, it sees much lower visitor numbers than Kruger.
Second, the bush sections of the park are dense – even now in the arid winter time of the year – and that makes animal-spotting not the doddle it can be in the KNP.
And, to be fair to Marakele – and the excellent Marataba Safari Company with which I stayed – you will still have an excellent game-viewing experience, as my accompanying images demonstrate.
Of course, it helps to have your own expert guide, like Riaan, who was ours.
His experience and skill at reading the bush definitely made the morning and evening game drives worthwhile.
One great sighting, which more than made up for the disappointment of Mrs Rhino and Junior, was of a lion family.
While mom and dad lazed under a tree, two young lions were playing with each other and with a newly-killed warthog.
It was not clear who the killers were but I would guess the parents were responsible, because a warthog is a wiley and difficult creature for any carnivore to pin down and kill – it takes years of hunting experience for a lion to get the better of a warthog.
It’s an easy three-hour drive from Joburg to Marataba, which lies at the foot of the Waterberg mountains in Limpopo.
Arriving at the gate you are welcomed by the first of a multitude of smiles and a bottle of ice-cold water. Directions are given to the lodge, which is an easy half-hour drive.
On arrival there, you are greeted with more smiles.
Your car is parked and, for a brief time, you forget you even own a car. Checking in is done immediately and your luggage is taken to your new luxury tented accommodation.
But don’t be misled: this is to an ordinary camp tent what a bicycle is to a Ferrari.
Each unit has a bath and an open shower, his and hers wash basins and plenty of clothing space. There is also an outside shower that would be most welcome in the summer months. Lying on your king-size bed you open the doors and can look down on the meandering Matlabas river and across the veld.
Meals are five-star and lunch is usually served al fresco under the trees looking at the Waterberg.
If you like, special outdoor meals (at additional cost) can be served at a number of unique places out in the bush. What a place for a champagne anniversary breakfast.
Indoor dining promises “gourmet cuisine with fresh African flavours” served in the “elegantly appointed dining room”.
Marataba’s indoor dinners vary from a formal à la carte four-course dinner to an informal themed platter similar to a tapas-style menu where guests experience Africa’s different flavours and influences.
The lodge has 15 en-suite tents as well as conferencing facilities and an internet room with wi-fi. Guests can relax in the luxurious lounge and if there are few guests, dinner will be served there. There is also a small ladies bar. Drinks are complimentary on the game drives but anything else is at your own expense.
I found the staff were flexible and willing to accommodate requests, as when we asked for an earlier than the normal start to the morning game drive. Not wanting to miss the earlier morning, we set off an hour earlier than the usual 8.30am start. We asked also to leave earlier in the afternoon – the late drive leaves normally at 4pm.
Marataba Safari Company is an upmarket, luxury experience. It doesn’t come cheap, but quality never does.
And the Marakele National Park is a beautiful place. Just remember to keep your camera at the ready. - Saturday Star
l For more info, see www.hunterhotels.com/maratabasafarico